This is the final and 5th blog about skin care chemicals. Today's blog features Ferulic acid, and you'll learn what it is, what it does, and who should use it.Ferulic Acid
What is it? Like vitamin C, ferulic acid is used as an antioxidant that helps fight the effects of free radical and oxidative damage, Greenfield said. It’s also said to be able to prevent and treat photodamage of the skin caused by exposure to the sun’s UV rays.
“It’s used usually in serums and can also be found in creams,” she said, adding that she recommends people use it before their moisturizer and sunscreen each morning.
Who should use it? Most skin types react well to ferulic acid, Greenfield said, but again urged those with darker skin tones to proceed with caution.
Lamb also said it’s good for individuals who want anti-aging products. She pointed out that it’s one of the main ingredients in Skinceuticals C E Ferulic serum, which she said she uses on her skin every other morning.
Ferulic acid is “mildy potent,” Gmyrek added. She also clarified that it’s used more as a stabilizing agent and the actual percentage is not typically listed on product labels.
Malic, Citric, Mandelic And Tartaric Acids And Willow Bark Extract
Gmyrek
said malic, citric, mandelic and tartaric acids are among the
lesser-known and lesser-used AHAs in skin care, while there is a lesser
known BHA found in willow bark extract. She noted that they’re used for
the same purposes of other AHAs and BHAs, but said they don’t seem to
be as effective as glycolic or salicylic.Is there anyone who shouldn’t use acids?
If you’ve got extremely inflamed, cracked, flaking or open skin, Gmyrek advised against applying acids.
When skin is cracked or flaking, the skin barrier is open, which means products that would typically be well-tolerated could cause irritation because they aren’t being absorbed the way they were intended. Instead, Gmyrek said, they could be “passing through the breaks in the skin and can cause further irritation and redness.”
And of course, as Greenfield noted multiple times, those with darker skin tones should approach acid use with caution to avoid any unwanted discoloration.
A few more notes to keep in mind:
As you now know, most of the popular acids in skin care exfoliate the skin, which means they get rid of the outer layer of dead skin cells. As a result of that, skin might become more sensitive to sunlight, Gmyrek said.
“So always, always apply SPF 30 plus, broad spectrum (UVA plus UVB) sunscreen and reapply every two to four hours!” she added.
Additionally, acids shouldn’t burn or leave your face in pain. Gmyrek said it’s normal to experience a slight tingle when the product is applied. She also said patience is key when it comes to seeing results with acid use.
“You should see improvement in the skin within a week or two of use — not for fine lines and wrinkling, which takes at least 12 weeks, but for brightening and radiance as the dead skin layer is exfoliated,” she said.
It’s also always beneficial to consult with a dermatologist before trying new acid-based (or any) skin care products, as they can help determine what will best suit your skin. Greenfield said this is always the best practice, and advised everyone to avoid at-home remedies for any skin care.
