Skin Care Chemicals Part 2: Glycolic Acid

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In Part 2 of "skin care products," you'll learn about Glycolic acid which is used in some skin care products, what it does, and who should use it.  

Glycolic Acid

What is it?  Glycolic acid, an AHA, is a chemical exfoliant that breaks down and eliminates dead skin cells on the outer later of the skin, Gmyrek said.

“As it releases these cells, they are exfoliated and there is improvement in dullness, dry flaking skin, pigmentation and brightness of the skin,” she added. “When the dead skin cells have been removed, the ability to hydrate with moisturizing products is also improved, as they are able to penetrate more effectively into the skin.”

Gmyrek added that glycolic acid has been shown to increase collagen production.

Who should use it?  Greenfield expanded on Gmyrek’s points, noting that while glycolic acid is beneficial in treating aging and skin brightness, it can be used to treat acne in some cases. She also said glycolic acid is well-tolerated on most skin types. Of course, if you’re super sensitive, you should consult with a dermatologist before trying anything.

Greenfield also advised caution for those with darker skin tones, explaining that in rare cases, glycolic acid “can cause a paradoxical darkening of the skin, so you have to be careful with those.”

When looking for over-the-counter glycolic acid products, Gmyrek suggested looking for something with 10 to 15 percent strength.

Greenfield explained that products available over the counter will have much lower acid concentrations than those available in a medical setting. For context, she said she administers glycolic acid peels that range from 20 to 70 percent. Something at that strength is going to provide more drastic results much quicker.